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Newfoundland diary: Bottle Cove
York Harbour I had intended to write a Newfoundland diary, but the onslaught of beautiful rocky coasts, wildflowers and butterflies, fragrant forests of balsam fir, moose and caribou, seabirds,...
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Blow Me Down
Towards Lark Harbour Trail through forest Trail through open area When, in the middle of August, you need to light up the wood stove to warm your feet, there’s snow at 2000 feet, and an iceberg floats...
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Completing the circle
Matthew replica We’re staying near Bonavista, possibly where John Cabot landed his ship, the Matthew, in “New Founde Lande” on June 24, 1497. There’s a plaque in the cottage commemorating “the 500th...
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Clints and grikes
Clints and grike We’ve walked on more interesting trails in Newfoundland than I can count, and those are a tiny fraction of the possibilities. Many are in National or Provincial Parks; some are on...
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Skerwink Trail
Sea stacks We just walked the beautiful Skerwink Trail, which is reachable by a short path from our house rental. The trail loops around Skerwink Head, a rocky peninsula between Port Rexton and Trinity...
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Desmond X. Holdridge
Whaler and fishing vessels near the Coast of Labrador, William Bradford I’ve been learning about Desmond X. Holdridge, starting with a quote about boats from his book about sailing around Newfoundland...
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Port Rexton
Our longest stay in Newfoundland is in Port Rexton, on the Bonavista Peninsula. Close by are the historic town of Trinity with an excellent local theater, Port Union, the only union-built town in North...
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Moveable feasting
You can’t count on a 4 mph pace on the trails of Newfoundland, even if you can walk faster than that on flat ground. Even 3 mph or 2 mph is hard to manage. In fact, you stop thinking about the pace....
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Visitor density
Devil’s Cove and beyond There are similarities between Cape Cod (CC) and Newfoundland & Labrador (NL). Both are beautiful, have long histories connected with the sea, are more residential than...
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A union-built town
Band saw in the restored factory Port Union is a gem that I knew nothing about. It seems little understood by Wikipedia or Google searches, or even many locals. Yet it’s a fascinating site and story,...
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Mistaken Point
There’s a problem in writing about Newfoundland: It’s an unassuming place, with few of the Michelin green guide must-see attractions. Some of the best sights are poorly marked or hard to reach. There...
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